Showing posts with label brew. Show all posts
Showing posts with label brew. Show all posts

Saturday, February 18, 2012

#19 - 90 Minute IPA (Continually Hopped) [All Grain]

Given the great taste of my 60 Minute IPA, I decided to try my hand at making a clone of the Dog Fish Head 90 Minute IPA. The main difference will that this will be an all grain batch so should make a much better match to the original. I spent more money on this brew than any other due to the rarity of the ingredients. I had to get Amarillo hops from the US, Simcoe and Warrior hops from different UK stores and Special Amber malt from the UK also. I wanted to make a real effort to replicate the original style.

Given that this was going to be a high gravity wort I needed a starter. I hadn't been brewing in about 6 weeks so in that time I built my own stir plate and got a 1 litre conical flask. Upon further investigation I discovered that a 1 litre starter would be nowhere near enough for this beer as according to Mr. Malty I would need a 4 litre starter at the very least. I had 1 vial of White Labs WLP007 which was due to expire in 3 months. I had no idea as to the viability of the yeast in the vial as it had been exposed, several times, to warm temperatures both during the delivery to my supplier and also from the supplier to me.
Starter on stir plate ready to be transferred into larger vessel
I decided to make a small 800mL starter using the stir plate to increase the cell count to the 100 to 150 billion yeast cell range assuming that the current cell count was 50 Billion or less. I used the rough method of adding a 10 to 1 ratio of malt extract to water, in this case 80g for 800mL.  I used the same principal for the larger starter which was approximately 400g for 4L. This should give a gravity in the 1040 to 1050 range. 

I ran the stir plate for about 24 hours after which point I transferred the wort into a 1 gallon demijohn to increase the cell count further. In hindsight I should have done all this about 24 hours earlier as the yeast only got about 12 hours in the demijohn which I don't think was enough time. I put the starter in the fridge to encourage the yeast to fall out of suspension but this didn't happen due to time constraints. 

Dual 2kW elements heating 22L of strike water 
I was excited to see the performance of my kettle with the additional element I added last month. I was getting impatient waiting for the contents to heat up. I needed to heat this volume of water to around 73 degrees which will take into account the temperature drop when the grains are added. I had already instructed BeerSmith to allow for the fact that I would have already preheated the mash tun which hot water. 
Mash in with 7.5kg of grain
I brought the strike water up to temperature and added it to the mash tun. I then started adding the grain starting with 2 (3kg) bags of pale malt followed by 2 (0.5kg) bags of pale malt and finally 0.5kg of amber malt. I left the amber malt until last as I felt I could mix it in more evenly with the other grains in there. The first of my mistakes of the day occurred here, I will refer back to this point later.

So yeah, that brings me onto the mixing. I had always seen guys (on youtube) using mash paddles and had thought to myself, "I will never need one of them, the random spoons and stirrers around my apartment will be grand.....". I wished I had had one of those paddles today. As this was only my 2nd all grain batch I wasn't prepared for such a thick mash. I was using a normal plastic cooking spoon to stir initially and I nearly snapped it in half while trying to stir. I then changed to one of the plastic paddles for stirring wort, this worked a bit better but overall struggled to do the job. I think I have identified the next piece of equipment to purchase. I stirred as best as I could and then took the temperature. It had dropped to approximately 65degrees which is a bit lower than where I normally aim to mash but the brewing notes in the recipe indicate to mash on the low side.
I put the lid on the box and then piled on several towels on top of the lid. My opinion on coolers is that they are optimised to keep stuff cool and thus seem to skimp on insulation in the lid. This is really apparent after an hour when you put your hand in between the towels and the lid as its quite warm. 
Continuous hopping for 90 minutes
While the grains were mashing I measured out all the hops into plastic cups to make the hopping schedule easier. I mixed everything into a large bowl and measured out approximately 18g per cup which incidentally was the full cup. Each addition would be added incrementally in its respective 10 minute interval and as a result the zero minute addition doesn't really make sense as I would have been adding the 10 minute cup up until zero anyway. I decided to add it all in at flame-out to give some additional aroma as I had a some small bits of hops left over. 

I took the first running's from the mash tun after an hour and did a single batch sparge with 14 litres of water at 76 degress. The total running's from the mash tun filled my kettle almost to the brim at nearly 28 litres. I was a bit uneasy with this amount of wort as I was used to having around 25 to 26 Litres in the kettle. There was now a high risk of a boil-over before the hot-break. I fired up the two elements and took a gravity reading. DISASTER, I only had a miserable pre-boil gravity of 1051 ! This number should have been greater than 1070.  I wanted to cry. This brings me back to the first mistake. I had another 1kg of grain that I didn't put into the mash as I thought my efficiency would be better than the previous batch but unfortunately it was worse! The efficiency was working out at less than 50% or even worse. 

So I think to myself, I know what I'm doing, I don't have any malt extract so the other option is to boil for a longer period of time and increase the gravity that way, I was already 2 or 3 litres above my normal volume so it would be fine. This was mistake number 2. I think that despite that Beersmith saying it was aiming for a pre-boil volume of 26 Litres, it was taking into account the additional 30 minutes of the 90 minute boil and compensating accordingly. I came close to a boil-over before the hot break and thankfully turning off one of the elements immediately resolved the situation.  I was afraid that there would be a delay resulting in a  boil-over despite no heat. 
End of the boil
I boiled for 30 minutes and then started the timers. I continuously hopped for 90 minutes and added the wort chiller in the last 10 minutes to sterilise it. Unfortunately mistake number 2 was starting to become apparent. At this point I would usually have around 22 or 23 litres of wort after the boil. About 3 or 4 litres of this would normally be lost to trub in the end of the kettle. I had just under 20 litres at this stage so I knew I was going to come up short. I cooled the wort and transferred it through the hop strainer to the fermenter and sure enough I came up short at 15 litres. I was amazed that I had got even that much given the enormous amount of trub and hop leaves in the kettle. 

Given the extreme amount of hops in this recipe I didn't think it was a good idea to leave the volume at 15 litres. I decided to pitch the entire 4.5 litre starter into the fermenter to bring up the volume to the required amount. This had two effects of adding the yeast and also some gravity of which the yeast hadn't had a chance to eat yet. I mixed the wort up and took a gravity reading ignoring the fact that there is yeast in the mixture and probably some alcohol from the starter. The original gravity came to 1074  which I suppose isn't  too bad given the mistakes made earlier. The drink that I am attempting to clone weighs in at 9% ABV so if the my beer attenuates down to 1010 and priming adds another bit I mightn't be that far off in the end. BeerSmith is estimating that the beer will finish high at 1020 but given the lower mash temperature and the enormous starter I don't think it will finish that high. 

I added 2 bags of hops for dry hopping and I will just leave those in there for 2 weeks in the primary. I'm not going to bother transferring to secondary unless I get bored. 

Recipe:

Recipe:  90m IPA TYPE: All Grain
Style: Imperial IPA
---RECIPE SPECIFICATIONS-----------------------------------------------
SRM: 16.4 EBC SRM RANGE: 15.8-29.6 EBC
IBU: 122.9 IBUs Tinseth IBU RANGE: 60.0-120.0 IBUs
OG: 1.087 SG OG RANGE: 1.070-1.090 SG
FG: 1.019 SG FG RANGE: 1.010-1.020 SG
BU:GU: 1.413 Calories: 764.1 kcal/l Est ABV: 9.0 %
EE%: 70.00 % Batch: 19.00 l      Boil: 26.21 l BT: 90 Mins


Recipe Type: All Grain
Yeast: WLP007
Yeast Starter: Yes
Batch Size (Gallons): 5.5
Original Gravity: 1.085
Final Gravity: 1.017
IBU: 90
Boiling Time (Minutes): 90
Color: 9SRM


Total Grain Weight: 7.50 kg Total Hops: 263.00 g oz.
---MASH/STEEP PROCESS------MASH PH:5.40 ------
>>>>>>>>>>-ADD WATER CHEMICALS BEFORE GRAINS!!<<<<<<<
Amt                   Name                                     Type          #        %/IBU         
7.00 kg               Pale Malt, Maris Otter (5.9 EBC)         Grain         1        93.3 %        
0.50 kg               Amber Malt (43.3 EBC)                    Grain         2        6.7 %         


Name              Description                  Step Temperature       Step Time       
Mash In           Add 22.04 l of water at 72.6 66.7 C                 60 min          


---SPARGE PROCESS---
>>>>>>>>>>-RECYCLE FIRST RUNNINGS & VERIFY GRAIN/MLT TEMPS: 22.2 C/60.0 C
>>>>>>>>>>-ADD BOIL CHEMICALS BEFORE FWH 
Batch sparge with 3 steps (Drain mash tun, , 7.09l, 7.09l) of 75.6 C water


---BOIL PROCESS-----------------------------
Est Pre_Boil Gravity: 1.072 SG Est OG: 1.087 SG
Amt                   Name                                     Type          #        %/IBU         
10.00 g               Amarillo Gold [8.50 %] - Boil 90.0 min   Hop           3        7.8 IBUs      
4.00 g                Warrior [15.00 %] - Boil 90.0 min        Hop           4        5.5 IBUs      
3.00 g                Simcoe [13.00 %] - Boil 90.0 min         Hop           5        3.6 IBUs      
10.00 g               Amarillo Gold [8.50 %] - Boil 80.0 min   Hop           6        7.7 IBUs      
4.00 g                Warrior [15.00 %] - Boil 80.0 min        Hop           7        5.4 IBUs      
3.00 g                Simcoe [13.00 %] - Boil 80.0 min         Hop           8        3.5 IBUs      
10.00 g               Amarillo Gold [8.50 %] - Boil 70.0 min   Hop           9        7.6 IBUs      
4.00 g                Warrior [15.00 %] - Boil 70.0 min        Hop           10       5.3 IBUs      
3.00 g                Simcoe [13.00 %] - Boil 70.0 min         Hop           11       3.5 IBUs      
10.00 g               Amarillo Gold [8.50 %] - Boil 60.0 min   Hop           12       8.0 IBUs      
4.00 g                Warrior [15.00 %] - Boil 60.0 min        Hop           13       5.2 IBUs      
3.00 g                Simcoe [13.00 %] - Boil 60.0 min         Hop           14       3.4 IBUs      
10.00 g               Amarillo Gold [8.50 %] - Boil 50.0 min   Hop           15       7.0 IBUs      
4.00 g                Warrior [15.00 %] - Boil 50.0 min        Hop           16       4.9 IBUs      
3.00 g                Simcoe [13.00 %] - Boil 50.0 min         Hop           17       3.2 IBUs      
10.00 g               Amarillo Gold [8.50 %] - Boil 40.0 min   Hop           18       6.4 IBUs      
4.00 g                Warrior [15.00 %] - Boil 40.0 min        Hop           19       4.5 IBUs      
3.00 g                Simcoe [13.00 %] - Boil 40.0 min         Hop           20       2.9 IBUs      
10.00 g               Amarillo Gold [8.50 %] - Boil 30.0 min   Hop           21       5.6 IBUs      
4.00 g                Warrior [15.00 %] - Boil 30.0 min        Hop           22       4.0 IBUs      
3.00 g                Simcoe [13.00 %] - Boil 30.0 min         Hop           23       2.6 IBUs      
10.00 g               Amarillo Gold [8.50 %] - Boil 20.0 min   Hop           24       4.4 IBUs      
4.00 g                Warrior [15.00 %] - Boil 20.0 min        Hop           25       3.1 IBUs      
3.00 g                Simcoe [13.00 %] - Boil 20.0 min         Hop           26       2.0 IBUs      
10.00 g               Amarillo Gold [8.50 %] - Boil 10.0 min   Hop           27       2.7 IBUs      
4.00 g                Warrior [15.00 %] - Boil 10.0 min        Hop           28       1.9 IBUs      
3.00 g                Simcoe [13.00 %] - Boil 10.0 min         Hop           29       1.2 IBUs      


---FERM PROCESS-----------------------------
Primary Start: 07/01/2012 - 4.00 Days at 19.4 C
Secondary Start: 11/01/2012 - 10.00 Days at 19.4 C
Style Carb Range: 2.20-2.70 Vols
Bottling Date: 21/01/2012 with 2.3 Volumes CO2: 
---NOTES------------------------------------
7.25kg 2-row
580g  Thomas Fawcett Amber Malt* (see note below)
85g Amarillo
28g Simcoe
28g Warrior


Primary Fermentation (# of Days & Temp): 2wks @ 18
Secondary Fermentation (# of Days & Temp): 2wks @ 21
Mix all hops together, and hop continuously for 90min** (see note below)
Mash at 149-150(65-65.5)*
Ferment with WLP007 at 18*. Use a pitch rate calculator for your starter, you want around
300 billion cells.


Dry hop:
56g Amarillo
56g Simcoe
I like to split the additions in half over the 2 weeks


*Amber malt: Use Thomas Fawcett Amber Malt, don't just use any old amber malt.If you can't find Thomas Fawcett Amber, look harder. This is the exact malt DFH uses,and it's a distinctive flavor. It's available at quite a few online retailers if your
LHBS doesn't carry it.


**Hopping: Mix all 140g of hops together, how often you add them is up to you. Some people add a couple pellets every minute, others fill up 30 dixie cups, and add one cup per 3 minutes. Personally I do 10 additions, 14g every 10 minutes, and it turns out excellent.


That's about it, it's actually a fairly easy beer to brew other than the continuous hoping. If you can't find WLP007, use WYeast 1098 - Dry Whitbread, or Safale S04. Definitely use WLP007 if it's available, the yeast character is dead on.


Make Starter  48 hours before making the brew. Chill for the last 6 - 12 hours to take the yeast out of suspension, decant the excess beer so that it is only concentrated yeast being pitched. 

Sunday, January 15, 2012

Tweeting Fermenter

After a brew day I cant help but have concern for the status of the fermentation and its environment especially in terms of the temperature. I had always wondered what was going on and thought it would be great if I could get some sort of real time information about what was happening. I decided to put my engineering background to some use and set up a temperature monitoring system. I considered using an Arduino based solution but didn't really have the time and didn't want the mess (It was actually sheer laziness). I went for one of these units in the end:
Wireless Temperature Monitoring Units
This unit connects to the PC via USB which performs real time graphing but also has the ability to perform HTTP,GET, POST, CMD and Email commands with a little utility that you leave running in the background. I have a home server that is normally on so it made sense to connect the base station to this machine for logging and running the utility. Since it isn't possible to update your twitter status from email I had to rely on a third party utility to update twitter for me. There are some that you can pay for but I found one that was free. It is called Twittermail and it merely inserts your emails into your twitter for you. I set up the utility to use my Gmail account and it sends the data from my gmail account to my twitter stream using a unique email address generated from Twittermail.  
Utility for emailing sensor data
I configured the utility to email me the temperatures of my fermenting bucket (I just left the sensor on the lid) and the Kitchen (where I leave bottles to condition for the first couple of weeks). This email is sent every hour and I made a new twitter account to receive the tweets which I then followed using my main account.  I don't think any of my followers would have taken too kindly to hourly temperature data. I only got this working this evening so I don't know if I have the transmission frequency right yet but the system is indeed tweeting my temperatures. 
Tweets with temperature data
I purchased the components from Audon in the UK and the batteries in the wireless sensors seem to last longer than a month which isn't too bad. I'm sure that an equivalent system could be built for much less than the cost of these sensors and if you have the time to build it then go for it. 


Wednesday, January 4, 2012

#17 - Ronk Island IPA [Extract]

My favourite type of beer at the moment is the IPA (India Pale Ale). I like it because it is relatively light in terms of malt flavour and heavy in terms of hop bittering and aroma. One brand of commercial IPA which has got my attention again and again is Goose Island IPA. I decided to make a clone of this beer using a modified extract recipe from one of the American brewing websites. It was modified due to availability of hops and grain in my main home brew supplier.  
Ingredients for Kit, Extract and All Grain Brews
Over Christmas I got plenty of brewing equipment and vouchers so I decided to finally make the transition to All Grain brewing.

This brew would probably be my last extract brew before I exclusively transition to all grain. The adjacent photo shows the ingredients for 3 brews (1016, 1017 and 1018) and pretty much represents my progress in learning brewing over the last 8 months.

Yeast Starter, Irish Moss and Hops
I made a yeast starter for this brew using Danstar Nottingham yeast. I made this with a small amount of malt extract and hops. The dust from the pellet hops can actually be seen on the krausen on top of the starter. 

I boiled the brew with my new boiler which is just a fermenter bucket with a 2kW (240V) kettle element and a hop strainer. The 2kW element is sufficient to achieve a good rolling boil but it takes quite a while to reach this point. A great improvement would be the addition of a second element to speed up the boiling process and then turn it off once a rolling boil starts. This addition would save nearly an hour on brew-day! The hop strainer consists of a copper pipe covered in holes which is then connected to a tap in the side of the boiler. This strainer simply does not work if pellet hops are used, I tried to use it and not even a drop came out it was blocked too badly. It works perfectly when only leaf hops are used. 

Steeping Grains
 The recipe calls for 3 different types of grain, 2 of which need to be mashed (Wheat and Munich Malt) and 1 which only needs to be steeped (Crystal). The recipe doesn't say that they need to be mashed so they are really only contributing some flavour. I decided to try and get a bit of conversion going and left all the grain steeping for an hour at approximately 67 degrees C (152 degrees F). 

As can be seen from the photo, the colour is beginning to change due to the contribution from the crystal grains. I found that the other grains were making the beer cloudy more than anything else which was probably mainly starch as there was not enough base grain for a good conversion to take place.  

Once the grains were steeped for an hour I brought the wort back up to boiling and started the timer for the hop additions. The hops were added as per schedule along with the Irish moss. I think I added too much Irish moss as there was a huge amount of break material generated while the wort was cooling. As stated earlier, the hop strainer was instantly blocked from the volume of material which must have taken up between 4 and 5 litres at the bottom of the boiler. I siphoned out the wort into the fermenter and it eventually got blocked once the wort drained to the same level as the break material. I got 18 litres instead of the anticipated 19 litres so I have updated the boiler losses in BeerSmith to take this into account.

The recipe for this brew can be found below:
Recipe: Ronk Island IPA TYPE: Extract    Style: American IPA

---RECIPE SPECIFICATIONS-----------------------------------------------
SRM: 21.6 EBC SRM RANGE: 11.8-29.6 EBC
IBU: 66.0 IBUs Tinseth IBU RANGE: 40.0-70.0 IBUs
OG: 1.060 SG OG RANGE: 1.056-1.075 SG
FG: 1.014 SG FG RANGE: 1.010-1.018 SG
BU:GU: 1.093 Calories: 427.1 kcal/l Est ABV: 6.1 %
EE%: 70.00 % Batch: 19.00 l      Boil: 26.21 l BT: 60 Mins
Total Grain Weight: 4.20 kg Total Hops: 105.00 g oz.
---MASH/STEEP PROCESS------MASH PH:5.40 ------
Amt                   Name                                     Type          #        %/IBU         
0.50 kg               Caramel/Crystal Malt - 40L (78.8 EBC)    Grain         1        11.9 %        
0.35 kg               Munich Malt (17.7 EBC)                   Grain         2        8.3 %         
0.35 kg               Wheat Malt, Ger (3.9 EBC)                Grain         3        8.3 %         
---SPARGE PROCESS---
Remove grains, and prepare to boil wort
---BOIL PROCESS-----------------------------
Est Pre_Boil Gravity: 1.050 SG Est OG: 1.060 SG
Amt                   Name                                     Type          #        %/IBU         
3.00 kg               Light Dry Extract (15.8 EBC)             Dry Extract   4        71.4 %        
37.00 g               Centennial [10.00 %] - Boil 60.0 min     Hop           5        42.7 IBUs     
38.00 g               Fuggles [4.50 %] - Boil 30.0 min         Hop           6        15.2 IBUs     
1.00 tsp              Irish Moss (Boil 20.0 mins)              Fining        7        -             
22.00 g               Fuggles [4.50 %] - Boil 15.0 min         Hop           8        5.7 IBUs      
8.00 g                Cascade [5.50 %] - Boil 15.0 min         Hop           9        2.5 IBUs      
---FERM PROCESS-----------------------------
Primary Start: 01/01/2012 - 4.00 Days at 19.4 C
Secondary Start: 05/01/2012 - 10.00 Days at 19.4 C
Style Carb Range: 2.20-2.70 Vols


#16 - Coopers Ginger Beer [Kit]

First brew of 2012! At one of my previous beer tastings, one of my friends (who is also a brewer), brought a few samples of a coopers ginger beer that he made. Needless to say it was the hit of the night and everybody loved the taste including my girlfriend who kept going on about it and wondering when my friend was going to bring more over again. Naturally this was prime opportunity for a Christmas present and her first brewing opportunity. :)
Coopers Ginger Beer
Sure enough I got it for her along with 500g of extra light and 500g of light spray malt. Along with the contents of the can, this would bring the alcohol content of the beer to between 3 and 3.5% which should lead to a light and refreshing brew. 

Making the brew was not much different from that of a normal kit except for the fact that less water is needed. The kit is mixed with 2 litres of boiling water and then mixed with the malt extract. It is then topped up to 19 litres compared to the conventional 23 litres as is common with other kits. 


It is now in the fermenter with an OG of 1032, which is a little on the low side and will probably result in a final gravity of 1010 giving just under 3% alcohol. When carbonating the sugar might add on another 0.25 to 0.5%. The instructions on the back recommend using 1kg of raw sugar which would have a higher fermentability than malt extract at the expense of body. If making the kit again I would make it with the raw sugar and compare against the malt extract to see which gives the better flavour. 

Wednesday, November 23, 2011

#15 - Ronk Christmas Bock [Extract]

Since its getting close to the festive season I went searching for a Christmas beer that sounded tasty. Seeing as I was still quite new to extract brewing and I had just started using BeerSmith (#14), I went looking on their website for a recipe. I went through the various recipies and came across "Happy Holidays Ale" which attracted my attention due to the simplicity of the ingredients and the addition of a speciality grain called 'Special B Malt'. It was great to see something that wasn't the same old iteration involving crystal grains.
Steeping grains
As was the case in the previous brew (#14), some of the ingredients were not available in the home brew store. I had to substitute the grains with something so I literally guessed that Carafa Special I Roasted Caramalt would do the trick. 

The resulting taste of this brew has been very good. Fairly good head retention which I reckon could be improved a lot with the addition of some flaked Oates. As it was a Christmas beer I would have liked a bit more of the cloves and cinnamon to come through. They were very much in the background and I couldn't detect them. The next time I think I would double their addition size to increase their potency. The hops come through very well in aroma and taste. They are not overpowering but are still upfront enough to be enjoyable. Overall a recommended recipe. :) 


Recipe: Ronk Christmas Bock TYPE: Extract
Style: Fruit Beer/Bock

---RECIPE SPECIFICATIONS-----------------------------------------------
SRM: 31.3 SRM SRM RANGE: 5.0-50.0 SRM
IBU: 21.4 IBUs Tinseth IBU RANGE: 5.0-70.0 IBUs
OG: 1.059 SG OG RANGE: 1.030-1.110 SG
FG: 1.013 SG FG RANGE: 1.006-1.024 SG
BU:GU: 0.365 Calories: 169.1 kCal/12 oz Est ABV: 6.0 %
EE%: 72.00 % Batch: 5.02 gal      Boil: 3.69 gal BT: 60 Mins

---WATER CHEMISTRY ADDITIONS----------------
Taste of Christmas! 
Amt                   Name                                     Type          #        %/IBU         
3.96 gal              Dublin, Ireland                       Water         1           -             


Remove grains, and prepare to boil wort
---BOIL PROCESS-----------------------------
Est Pre_Boil Gravity: 1.088 SG Est OG: 1.059 SG
Amt                   Name                                                 Type           #        %/IBU         
6 lbs 9.8 oz          Light Dry Extract (8.0 SRM)                  Dry Extract   3        85.7 %        
2.00 oz               Cascade [4.30 %] - Boil 45.0 min           Hop           4        19.3 IBUs     
0.45 kg               Honey (Boil 45.0 mins)                         Other         5        -             
1.00 tsp              Irish Moss (Boil 15.0 mins)                    Fining        6        -             
4.00 Items           Orange Peel, Sweet (Boil 10.0 mins)      Spice         7        -             
2.00 tsp              Vanilla (Boil 10.0 mins)                         Spice         8        -             
0.25 tsp              Cloves (Ground) (Boil 10.0 mins)           Spice         10       -             
0.25 tsp              Cinnamon (Powdered) (Boil 10.0 mins)   Spice         9        -             
1.00 oz               Cascade [4.30 %] - Boil 5.0 min            Hop           11       2.1 IBUs      

Sunday, September 18, 2011

#12 - Brewers Choice Traditional IPA [Extract]

Since my original coopers IPA in brew #3 had completely run out I decided it was time for another IPA. I so impressed with the process of making the Weissbier in brew #11 that I went with another Brewers Choice kit. When making kits you never have any experience of steeping grains (at least not initially) but this IPA had several types of grains to be steeped and a couple of types of hops. They were all contained in their own tea bag things but you could smell that "IPA smell" from one of the grain bags and I was really impressed with that. I didn't realise that certain types of grain could have such an affect on the taste.

Please excuse the apparent filth of the cooker but it was rusting before I moved in here. :P  I have the grains and hops steeping in a pot of boiled water which is sitting on a wooden board to keep in some of the heat. This steeping is done 3 times. The coopers malt extract is also heating up in the back along with a Alexander's Pale Kicker which I later dumped as it was old and smelt disgusting.

When bottling the brew I used dextrose for the fist time without a bottling bucket. If there is one method that makes the misery of bottling worse then this has to be it. It was an awful mess, when adding the dextrose to the beer, it foamed out of the bottles. When adding the dextrose first it then foamed meaning it took twice as long as it required waiting till the foam died down. I was also conservative with the amount I put in with slightly less than 1 teaspoon. I opened a bottle earlier in the week and it wasn't carbonated yet which has quelled my previous worry that the whole batch would start exploding. : /

I will update this as the picture changes.


Stats:
Started - 28.8.11
Racked - NA
Finished - 08.09.11
Bottled - 08.09.11
Code - 1012
Yeast Brand - B.C Yeast
Yeast Code -  DZB 6G
Y-Temp -  22.0
Beer/Product Type -   Brewers Choice Traditional IPA
Malt/Sugar Type - 1.5kG Coopers LME Amber
Volume -  23.0 L
OG - 1058 
FG -  1017
Proof  - 6.00 (Including 0.5% Priming)

#11 - Brewers Choice Bavarian Weissbier [Extract]

This brew was my 2nd attempt at making a beer that had that sweet distinctive Weissbier taste that I had hoped to emulate in brew #2. The key ingredient that was missing in that brew to create that taste was the correct type of yeast. This was not a problem with this kit. The Brewers Choice kits are also a bit more 'involved' than the traditional kit type as they have separate hops, grains, DME and an additional malt extract which you buy separately. 

I chose to buy an LME(wheat) for this brew as it was recommended as a means of getting the highest quality possible out of the kit. I also made my first yeast starter which I'm sure wasn't made correctly as I just used a bit of sugar and water to make it. I left it for 4 or 5 hours and it had grown quite a bit but I have no idea whether it was too much, too little and I wasn't bothered checking that website that tells you the correct amount of yeast to pitch into wort. Either way it was fine and it really does reinforce what I read on a forum recently, "its quite hard to screw up a batch of beer". I would tend to agree with this when kits are concerned. My tract record of venturing outside kit territory has been fraught with failure so far! :) 

The end result was very positive, it had 'the' taste that I was looking for and the first taste induces that "mmmm German beer" mental comment when you drink it.


Stats:
Started - 28.7.11
Racked -  28.8.11
Finished - 2.8.11
Bottled - 14.8.11
Code - 1011
Yeast Brand - Muntons Yeast
Yeast Code - NA
Y-Temp - 21.0
Beer/Product Type -   Brewers Choice Bavarian Weissbier 
Malt/Sugar Type - 1.5kG Coopers Wheat
Volume -  24.0 L
OG - 1055
FG -  1018
Proof  - 5.46 (Including 0.5% Priming)

#10 - Basic Mead [Extract]

While the other Mead #7 was brewing I was eager to get another Mead in the pipeline given that a Mead pipeline can be measured in years rather than months for beer. I had been reading around and felt that the previous brew had been unnecessarily complicated. I reduced the amount of ingredients and made my own guide to brewing the must so that it would be clearer in future. 


Simple Mead Recipe
  •  1.2kg     pure raw honey                  (for sweet, stronger Mead)
  • 5              Litres spring water            (Bottled, not tap unless chlorine free)
  • 1              tsp. yeast nutrient            (Citrix Additive)
  • 1              tsp. Nutmeg                       (main flavour)
  • 5              tsp Mellon balls                (stuff for yeast to eat)
  • 3              slices lime                           (stuff for yeast to eat)
  • 1/4          tsp. Irish moss                   (to clarify Mead)
  • 1/2          packet yeast                      (ale yeast)




Bring 1.5L of water to the boil. Take off the heat, add the honey and stir in until dissolved. Add the nutmeg, yeast nutrient and put back on the heat. Skim off the protein scum as it forms and boil for 10 minutes. Reduce heat to prevent boil overs if necessary. Add Irish moss and continue to boil for another 5 minutes. More scum, protein and clumps will form due to the Irish moss. Skim all of this off. Take off the heat and add all of the fruit. Allow the liquid to cool for 60 minutes.  
Add 0.5L of cool water to a sanitised demijohn; this prevents thermal shock when hot liquid added. Using a funnel and sieve, pour the mixture into the demi john and top up the liquid to the 1 gallon mark leaving enough head space for the krausen to form. Fill a sink with water and ice and gently lower the demijohn into it. This will cool the mixture to a temperature which is suitable for pitching the yeast. Add the yeast once the temperature has dropped below 25oC. 18-20 oC is preferable if you have patience. Bung the demijohn and shake the mixture to mix the yeast and aerate the mixture. Insert air lock and store in a cool, dark location for a month before racking to secondary. 
OG should be in the 1090 – 1100 range, FG should be 1000 or less


I racked the yeast after one month and took a small sample for tasting. If you compare this sample to that from brew #7, it can be seen that this one is a lot cloudier. This is to be expected as it was only fermenting for 1 month and hasn't had the same amount of time to settle. The taste from this recipe was delicious and was completely unexpected this early on! I figure the sweetness was due to an unfinished fermentation and the fact that I used ale yeast this time instead of the nasty champaign yeast. In theory the ale yeast shouldn't be able to ferment to the same level and should begin to die at 8 or 9% volume?  I don't have full faith in that assumption as it didn't work to well with the cider in brew #4. 

I am considering stabilising the fermentation to maintain the flavour as I feel it tastes great now and doesn't need any more. I will leave it go for another month and rack it again and taste it again to see what it is like. If it is still ok I will stabilise and perhaps add some bentonite to clear it further before bottling. 


Stats:
Started - 11.7.11
Racked -  28.8.11
Finished - NA
Bottled - NA
Code - 1010
Yeast Brand - Coopers Ale Yeast
Yeast Code - 19310 IPA
Y-Temp - 25.0
Beer/Product Type -   Basic Mead
Malt/Sugar Type - 1.2kG honey + limited Flavours
Volume -  5L
OG - 1091
FG - NA
Proof  - NA

#9 - St. Peters Ruby Red Ale [Kit]

I was informed about this kit after seeing a couple of videos making the kit and later tasting it. I was impressed by the little bit of extra hops that they supplied and it fed my urges to have more control over my batches. The kit also came highly recommended from several sources so I decided to give it a shot after seeing it stocked in my local home-brew store. 
This brew is quite slow to ferment and it really needs to be left in the primary fermenter for a full 2 weeks as it took nearly a week for the beer to get from a FG of 1018 down to 1016. I had a similar experience to that in the tasting video as I opened a bottle after 2 weeks and was very underwhelmed. I had high expectations yet the head retention was quite poor but the taste was still quite nice. 

This image is after opening a brew almost 2 months after bottling, I think I got a bad leaky bottle as there was very little hiss when I opened the bottle (Coopers Plastic bottles). The head disappeared relatively soon but the taste was quite nice. The colour is pretty much as you would expect. I'm hoping that by the time I have the next beer tasting it will have "sorted itself out". :) Overall a nice brew and I would recommend it. 


Stats:
Started - 10.7.11
Racked - NA
Finished - 20.7.11
Bottled - 21.7.11
Code - 1009
Yeast Brand - St. Peters Premium
Yeast Code - XHZB6G
Y-Temp - 26.0 
Beer/Product Type -  St Peters Ruby Red Ale
Malt/Sugar Type - Rye Malt Extract, Barley Malt Extract, Hops
Volume -  23.0L
OG - 1044
FG - 1016
Proof  - 4.25% (Including 0.5% for priming)

#8 - Red Wine* [Juice]

At this point I decided I was confident enough to attempt a small red wine batch. I started looking for grape juice in my local supermarket but the closest I could find at the time was a juice which was 70% red grape with the rest a mix of raspberry and cherry. I also bought some blackberries for a late addition. 
Wine Recipe
Wine Recipe & Guidelines
  • 1 tsp of allspice
  • 550g Caster Sugar
  • 4L Red Grape And Raspberry Cherry (Not From Concentrate)
  • 500ml Bottled water
  • 300g Blackberries  
Add the allspice granules to 500ml of water and allow it to boil for 10 minutes.Then add the sugar in portions while stirring.This will cause the sugar to dissolve into the solution.Leave this solution to boil for 5 minutes.  
Crush, juice or grind all of the blackberries into a pulp. Take the solution off the hot plate and add the pulp to the hot water and stir in gently. Put the solution back on the hot plate and bring to the boil then turn off the heat and take it off. 


Thankfully I didn't go to bed early the night I made this brew. It was the first time I have ever had to use a blow off tube. I was minding my own business, reading home-brew forums probably and I glanced over towards the freshly made brew (2 or 3 hours I would say). Sure enough grape and cherry trub as spewing out though the airlock! Normally I would have started having a heart attack at this point but thankfully my months of reading forums and watching YouTube videos finally paid off. The solution was to simply use a blow off tube and bottle of water which did the trick.

I recently tried the wine after letting it age in bottles for 2 months. It was bloody disgusting! That was what I get for using the last of the champaign yeast for this batch. I now officially HATE champaign yeast and will not buy it again and I really don't know why it is recommended for recipes above a normal wine yeast! The wine itself was very very slightly carbonated but it tasted like champaign which I don't really like at the best of times. Basically it was rocket fuel which homeless men one the street wouldn't even drink. Another batch down the drain unfortunately but valuable lessons learned.


Stats:
Started - 6.6.11
Racked - NA
Finished - 15.6.11
Bottled - 7.7.11
Code - 1008
Yeast Brand - Young's Champagne
Yeast Code - 28032013
Y-Temp - 24.0 
Beer/Product Type -  Red Wine
Malt/Sugar Type - Grape, Raspberry, Cherry & Blackberry Juice with 550g of sugar
Volume -  4.8L
OG - 1094
FG - 998
Proof  - 12.87%

#7 - Viking Mead [Extract]

Years ago, when I went to Wacken in Germany I was introduced to mead for the first time. It was absolutely delicious! From what I can remember it was definitely a sweet mead, which had a slightly red colour to it but I cant remember tasting any spices. I would speculate that it had low alcohol content (5% at a guess) as I drank a lot of it over several days and never really got drunk from it. My guess would be that it was racked to secondary with a load of cherries to give it the red colour.

I spent a lot of time searching around for a nice Mead recipe. There aren't that many sources of 'Viking' recipes and inevitably I came across a good recipe on one of the less well known mead websites. This recipe is for a 19L batch but I didn't want to brew something that large while having now idea how it would turn out. I instead attempted to scale back the recipe to suit a 5L batch.
The Ingredients for a 5L Batch of Mead
Mead Recipe
  • 1.2kg pure raw honey (for sweet, stronger Mead)
  • 5 Litres spring water (Bottled, not tap unless chlorine free)
  • 1 tsp. yeast nutrient (Citrix Additive)
  • 1 tsp. acid blend (combination malic/citric acid)
  • 2 oz. sliced ginger root (1 finger's length)
  • 1-2 whole cloves (optional, as desired)
  • <1 vanilla beans (optional, as desired)
  • <1 cinnamon (optional, as desired)
  • 1 Allspice (optional, as desired)
  • <1 crushed fruit (peaches, strawberries, grapes, pineapple, apple & others)
  • 1/4 tsp. Irish moss (to clarify Mead)
  • 1/2 packet yeast (Ale yeast )

The process of preparing the mead can be seen in the instructions on the original recipe but my main advice is don't try to make this in a 2L pot!  I ended up making the mead using 2 pots, I spilt bits of it everywhere and the entire kitchen and living room table was sticky for several days despite cleaning!

This is the stages of the mead over several months, it has a slightly red hue which goes away while the yeast is active during the initial fermentation and then is visible again once it beings to clear. In the 3rd image I was racking it for a 2nd time after 2 months ageing. It was at this point that I took my first sample.

It looks a a lot clearer in the glass than when it is in the demijohn but after the first taste I immediately regretted using the champaign yeast. It was extremely dry and I forgot to take a SG reading but I would guess it was at or below 1000 giving an alcohol content of over 12%. I don't think any amount of ageing is going to make this mead taste better. I am considering stabilising the fermentation and adding some dextrose to back sweeten but that mightn't be enough to save it. The spices mainly contributed to the aroma but it has definitely faded over time. I read somewhere that its sometimes recommended to make a 'spice tea' later and add it to the brew which I may consider the next time. Either way it is still ageing in the demijohn while I decide what to do with it.


Stats:
Started - 4.6.11
Racked - 7.7.11
Finished - NA
Bottled - NA
Code - 1007
Yeast Brand - Young's Champagne
Yeast Code - 28032013
Y-Temp - 26.0 
Beer/Product Type -  Viking Mead
Malt/Sugar Type - 1.2kg Honey + multiple flavours
Volume -  5L
OG - 1092
FG - NA
Proof  - NA

#6 - Coopers European Lager [Kit]

I tried this brew as I was looking to make some kind of light beer that didn't need the lime slice like brew#1 and wasn't as heavy as brews #3 or #5. I didn't like how mainstream it looked (I'm the type that judges a book by its cover) but I was willing to give it a chance. I made the brew at one of my beer tasting sessions with a load of friends. They were all curious to see the process so it made sense.
There was nothing out of the ordinary to report during the fermentation process of this beer.Although there was plenty to talk about from the bottling stage. I had previously primed all my bottles with 1 carbonation drop each while being aware that 1 drop is actually suited to 330ml bottles. For this batch I chopped a load of drops in half and put 1.5 drops into each bottle thinking it would be fine. It was fine.....kinda.... The beer was definitely over carbonated in the end which I didn't expect. I genuinely thought I was putting the perfect amount of sugar in and I had read in several places of others doing the same with positive results.

Instead I noticed that there had been "seepage" on some of the Grolsch bottles that I had stored the beer in. The pressure had obviously built up to such a degree that it had vented out through the swing top. I found this worrying and interesting at the same time. I did some searching around and found that it was indeed rare for Grolsch bottles to explode and this 'self venting' feature commonly noticed. I enjoy the 'POP' when opening a normal Grolsch bottle but opening the ones containing the lager was unbelievable. It was shocking how loud it was, it makes a room full of people go quiet!  :)  

I did let it age for much longer than I normally had done for previous beers.This was partly due to fear that a bottle would explode in my face if I disturbed it.  I was pleasantly surprised by the taste which was very refreshing and a little sweet which was a good thing. I don't know if I would bother brewing another Lager as I don't have any space or equipment to store it in cool temperatures for several weeks. I would probably make a pale ale instead. 

Stats:
Started - 4.6.11
Racked - NA
Finished - 11.6.11
Bottled - 12.6.11
Code - 1006
Yeast Brand - Coopers Lagar 
Yeast Code - 1011
Y-Temp - 20
Beer/Product Type -  Coopers European Lager
Malt/Sugar Type - 1.5kgCoopers Extract Light
Volume -  23L
OG - 1045
FG - 1013
Proof  - 4.8% (Including 0.5% for priming)